The selection criteria depends not only on the type of cosmetic or product that we are going to prepare but, above all, on the type of skin and the problem we want to treat.
The skins are generally classified as dry or oily. Combination skin, many times, is normal or sensitive skin that is not totally uniform and whose treatment must be, in many cases, an intermediate treatment. Sensitive skins are usually the ones that suffer the most dermatological affectations such as couperose, dermatitis, spider veins and facial blemishes, etc.
When we formulate a cream to hydrate and nourish the skin, we must take these characteristics into account, and include the appropriate vegetable and essential oils to treat it.
Thus, for example, if we want to make a facial cream with a sun protection factor, it will be convenient for us to choose carrier oils with biological protection filters.
Among the best base oils for this need, we will have those of: karanja, buriti, macerated urucum oil, and monoï oil, and, to a lesser extent, sesame, coconut and olive oil. To help us avoid stains and prepare our skin for the sun, we have oils with a high content of carotenoids such as carrot or apricot.
If, in turn, we use the appropriate essential oils synergistically, we will be able to increase the biological photoprotection factor exponentially. For example, if we combine carrot carrier oil with an EA of raspberry seeds whose photoprotection index is quite high, then we will have a mixture or “synergy” with interesting photoprotection properties.
COSMETIC PROPERTIES OF BASE OILS
The best oils to treat mature skin are argan, damask rose, wheat germ, evening primrose, borage, perilla, camelina, rosehip and carrot.
With avocado, argan and almond oils we will treat, above all, dry skin.
If, on the other hand, our skin is oily, the best treatment oils will be those of jojoba, hazelnut, babassu, safflower and evening primrose (the latter due to its hormone-regulating capacity).
If we have sensitive skin, perhaps also with problems with couperose or dermatitis, it would be better to use nigella oil, calendula oil or hemp oil.
And if we suffer from psoriasis, neem oil will be our best ally.
If what we want is to make a treatment cream for tired legs, orange peel, or even to improve the microcirculation of our face and reduce the visibility of our dark circles, then it would be better to use the recognized calophyll or tamanu oil because of its circulatory properties, or also calendula oil.
The action of these base oils will be reinforced if we include in our recipe the essential oils that reinforce the action we intend to achieve.
For example, to treat sensitive skin, we will use oils such as calendula, hemp or nigella that we can combine with essential oils such as feverfew or noble chamomile, mint, cedar, patchouli or ylang ylang. We know that these essential oils, combined with the appropriate butters and vegetable oils, reinforce their action by calming and softening sensitive skin or those affected by dermatitis and itching.
In a synergy to treat oily skin we will use, for example, a serum with jojoba oil and essential oil of rosemary, lemon, tea tree or lavender.
OLEOGELES in which natural aloe vera gel is combined with vegetable oils and essential oils are also of great help to treat oily skin and to regenerate unsightly scars, blemishes and small wounds.
If to prepare our Oleogel we also use rosehip oil, which is known to all for its regenerative capacity for spots and skin scars, then we will reinforce the repairing effect of aloe vera gel. Together with an essential oil of rockrose, sandalwood, Egyptian geranium, or even lavender, the effect we are looking for will be enhanced.
THE PROPERTIES OF THE DIFFERENT ESSENTIAL OILS IN NATURAL COSMETICS
The main EO for treating couperose, spider veins, and facial flushing are Helichrysum, Cedar, Cypress, Patchouli, Carrot, and Rockrose (Cistus ladaniferus). These EOs are both firming and anti-wrinkle due to the elasticity they confer on the skin.
Eucalyptus radiata is an effective anti-dandruff in shampoo preparations.
Black spruce (picea mariana) soothes dermatitis, as do feverfew and mint.
Cedar is especially effective in treating wet eczema.
Atopic dermatitis is usually accompanied by itching. When it comes to antipruriginosis treatments, patchouli and mint, as well as feverfew and noble chamomile (which is also antihistamine and anti-inflammatory) are the best. Ylang ylang also soothes dermatitis and fights associated itching, as well as strengthening hair.
The mint also fights the heaviness of the legs, as well as the cypress, which has a clear circulatory effect.
Lavender, (Spica and Angustifolia), is more indicated to soothe the bites of insects. Lavender in general calms and relaxes the nervous system, and is both healing (the best remedy against both accidental and sunburns).
Lavender, and also lavandin, are generally good for cleansing the skin and fighting acne and pimples.
For psoriasis, myrrh EO, combined with a carrier oil, is also a good choice.
Egyptian geranium (pelargonium asperum) is a good skin astringent, detoxifier and regulator that acne-prone skin also appreciates. With it, facial and purifying masks are prepared.
Rockrose (cistus ladaniferus) is also used in firming and anti-wrinkle treatments with remarkable success.
In the case of mycosis and toenail fungus or vaginal and oral candidiasis (fungi), etc. the best EOs for treating these problems are tea tree and niauli. They also treat cold sores and cold sores and skin acne. Niaouli works in much the same way as tea tree.
With toenail fungus, oregano EO is also especially effective.
Grapefruit and lemon EOs are used to combat cellulite as they eliminate subcutaneous fat, detoxify and give firmness and elasticity to the skin.
Lemon also whiten teeth. Lemon is a good treatment for oily hair and skin, as is rosemary, and also lavender. You just have to be careful with exposure to the sun as both are photosensitive.
Rosemary verbenone is especially effective against oily dandruff and cellulite.
Laurel is a basic remedy to purify and treat oily and abscessed skin as it has antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties. Its aroma is also delicious.
Jasmine can be used on all skin types, also the most delicate as it helps soothe irritations. In addition to being moisturizing, it provides elasticity to the skin. It is used to improve the appearance of stretch marks and scars, as well as acne and rashes or eczema.
Damascene rose, although expensive, is the best EO for treating mature skin.
Carrot (daucus carota) lightens blemishes and blemishes on the face and evens out the complexion.
In case of hair loss, the best AE are those of ylang ylang, spruce, rosemary and cinnamon.
Cellulite, orange peel skin and dark circles due to poor circulation are treated with the base oil of calophyll and the essential oils of helichrysum, rosemary, sage, lemon and grapefruit.
To regulate sebaceous secretions – Geranium, lavender and palmarosa
With anti-aging and toning properties – Orange blossom, incense and bitter orange
For oily and acne skin – Tea tree, cedar and rosemary
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