Proposal of two creams emulsified with natural emulsifiers of vegetable origin

Homemade cosmetics is something different from cosmetics that a company dedicated to natural cosmetics can make to sell to its potential customers.

Fundamentally, in home cosmetics we make cosmetic products in very small quantity and as a solution to our personal needs. It does not make much sense, in this case, to use preservatives that are not totally natural or, sometimes, even to insist on using them when it is not necessary since, for example, we are going to use our cream or cosmetic product in a short space of time.

And it is that in homemade cosmetics it is possible to prepare a very small dose of the product to ensure that it does not spoil and, even, that we can keep it in the fridge of our house.

Logically, this is not possible when we intend to sell our product in a store and we have to go through a series of cosmetic requirements and regulations stipulated according to the law of the country in which we want to market it. Natural cosmetics also have a series of seals of ecological production (COSMOS, ECO-CERT, etc …) with a series of requirements that our product must also meet.

Likewise, it also does not make sense to use ingredients and emulsifiers that can be aggressive with our skin in everyday use.

 

ADVANTAGES OF NATURAL AND ECOLOGICAL COSMETICS:

It connects us with nature and drives us to return to simpler formulas, such as those used by our grandmothers.

It is a cosmetic loaded with natural ingredients. It is not the same to use a cream with argan oil, rich in nutrients, than one with petroleum derivatives and other inert substances.

Bet on biodegradable natural ingredients that ensure environmental sustainability with substances that are not toxic to the life of the planet.

Avoid toxicity that comes from heavy metals, hydrocarbons, pesticides, dioxins, radioactivity, mycotoxins, drug residues, nitrates or nitrosamines and use packaging that is as respectful as possible with the environment, prioritizing recyclables.

It does not allow ingredients of petrochemical origin, nanoparticles or ingredients that have been genetically modified. Nor does animal testing, in accordance with European regulations.

HOMEMADE NATURAL COSMETICS

All this that applies to organic cosmetics also applies to homemade cosmetics in a simpler way.

Homemade cosmetics, more than a cosmetic loaded with natural assets, is and must be a “living” cosmetic because many of our cosmetic formulations can be made with ingredients that we all have in the pantry at home.

And, of course, if we use edible products, as the Ayurvedic tradition says, it is a naturally organic cosmetic without toxics and, often, even without preservatives.

HOMEMADE NATURAL COSMETICS AND EMULSIONS

In natural cosmetics it is possible to make two different types of creams:

1.-Anhydrous creams based on butters and oils that do not contain water and to which beeswax is added to integrate them. Those creams “do not emulsify” because, by definition, if they do not have water, it would not be an emulsion.

Those creams, more properly called balms or ointments, as we said, are not actually emulsions. Ointments and ointments consist of butters or vegetable oils that are “melted” with natural beeswax. Since they do not carry water, they do not need preservatives, just a few drops of vitamin E to avoid the rancidity of the butters and lengthen their durability.

2.-The creams, properly, consist of an aqueous phase and an oily phase and require, therefore, a self-emulsifying wax such as lanette wax, polywax, montanov, olivem, etc. to perform the emulsifying process. In addition, they need, normally, preservatives that prevent molds and bacteria that can form from the water contained in our cream.

 

COMPOSITION SCHEME OF AN EMULSION

Emulsifying wax is necessary so that both phases can be integrated in a stable way, that is, so that water and oil are not separated.

 

 

     Aqueous phase + Oil phase + Emulsifier

 

So easy, you don’t really need more to make a simple basic cream if you choose the components well.

And, very importantly, in homemade natural cosmetics, we will try to choose as natural emulsifying waxes and preservatives as possible to make our creams, as this is what will make the difference in terms of the better absorption and tolerance of our products.

The secret of a cream that hydrates the skin is not to add a dozen vitamins and active ingredients. That is not going to work, especially if they are synthetic. The secret of a moisturizing cream is its compatibility with the dermis because then the skin is capable of absorbing and assimilating it. And that is achieved with emulsifiers and preservatives that are as natural as possible.

The skin cannot assimilate well the chemical components that it does not recognize. Then it is said that this or that substance lacks bioavailability * when what is meant is that the body does not recognize it and rejects it. For our body, such a substance becomes toxic. As you can see, this process does not only occur with food at the level of digestion. It also happens with the nutrients that we smear on our skin.

* Bioavailable: The ability of a drug or other substance to be absorbed and used by the body.

 

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS IN HOMEMADE NATURAL COSMETICS

To elaborate a little more our cream and provide it with the specificity that each specific problem requires, we have a final phase in which we add the so-called active ingredients.

The active ingredients are almost always added at the end of our preparation since the emulsifying process normally needs heat to be carried out and the active ingredients are usually thermosensitive elements.

As you know, our philosophy of homemade cosmetics prioritizes naturally occurring ingredients and minimalist cosmetic compositions: “We believe less is more” if the combination of ingredients is well formulated and works.

Thus, after extracting from the water bath the emulsion of the oily and aqueous phases and removing them well, we will proceed to add the active ingredients chosen according to the problem we want to treat, and that range from:

For a calming effect: A small dose of vegetable oils of raspberry, blueberry, camelina, CO2 extracts of calendula or German chamomile, vegetable bisabol or a concentrate of phytosterols …

For a moisturizing and softening effect: Vegetable glycerin, turmeric oleate, vegetable elastin extracted from wheat protein, jasmine essential oil, comfrey extract, containing natural vegetable allantoin…

For a purifying effect: Organic propolis extract, the essentials oils of tea tree or lemon, rosemary CO2 extract, vegetable salicylic acid extract from the bark of the willow…

For a repairing effect: Skin repairing actives such as concentrated dragon blood extract, honey, Kiwi CO2 extract, niacinamide, gotu kola extract*, aloe extract powdered or in gel form …

*Gotu kola is a powerful skin healer that blurs acne marks. It is also soothing, moisturizing and nourishing so it improves the elasticity of the skin and renews the tissues and therefore it is included in many anti-aging treatments.

For an anti-aging effect: The vegetable oils of rosehip, argan, borage, cherry, blueberry, babchi, nopal, turmeric oleate, seaweed extract, vitamin C, bakuchi extract (bakuchiol), essential oils of linaloe *, Ho wood, rockrose, lavender, pink geranium, incense …

*Linaloe essential oil: Due to its high percentage of linalool it is similar in its uses to the essential oil of rosewood, today protected by its overexploitation. Skin tonic and astringent, regenerating and firming.

* Palo de Ho essential oil (twin brother of Palo de Rosa) has excellent efficacy and optimal skin tolerance. It is used a lot on mature skin to combat the effects of time.

For the care of atopic-prone skin: Camelina * and chaulmoogra * vegetable oils, black seed oil*, oat infused oil, calendula infused oil, colloidal oatmeal powder, German chamomile, patchouli and peppermint essential oils …

* Camelina sativa oil is rich in omega-3 acids, vitamin E, and antioxidants, compounds that can suppress biological reactions that lead to inflammation in the body.

* Chaulmoogra is a “medicinal” oil of Indian and Chinese tradition, used for the treatment of leprosy since ancient times, it has excellent properties against eczema, acne and atopic dermatitis. It is also used against excessive dryness and roughness of the skin due to psoriasis and as a carrier oil as it also has a homogenizing action on skin pigmentation.

* Black seed oil (nigella sativa) acts as a moisturizer that hydrates the hair and softens the skin. It is beneficial for people with eczema as it reduces its severity; for people with acne because the antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effects of black seed oil enhance it, and also to treat psoriasis.

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2352241015000286

Even, simply, a vitamin E antioxidant that we all know and use or the eventual addition of some essential oils.

We propose in this post the elaboration of two creams emulsified with natural emulsifiers. In the first instance, a cerate based on oat’s infused oil and natural rice emulsifying wax and that is specially formulated to moisturize the most delicate skins.

We have all heard about the multiple properties of calendula when it comes to treating sensitive skin affected by dermatitis and eczema.

In a previous post we elaborated a calendula ointment and a few more recipes with the idea of dealing with these problems.

However, oats, without being as well-known as calendula, also has a lot of properties to treat this type of skin.

Galen’s cerate, which is how this formulation is known, is an ancient cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparation, traditionally made from sweet almond oil, rose hydrosol, beeswax and borax. It is a cream of the type “water in oil” with a creamy and rich texture and nutritional and protective properties very popular with sensitive and dry skin. Beeswax, in combination with borax, produces the emulsion of water in the oil. However, the use of borax in cosmetic products can be potentially irritating, as well as complicated to handle.

With this vegetable rice wax it is relatively easy to produce this emulsion of distilled water in oat oleate. Rice wax brings a less thick texture to our preparation without detracting from creaminess. As it is a totally natural wax it can happen, as with soy lecithin (another natural emulsifier), that our emulsion loses some stability. In that case, we should know that it is possible to add a co-emulsifier such as cetyl alcohol.  Or, in some cases, as with lecithin, a thickening factor such as xanthan gum.

Cetyl alcohol (INCI: Cetyl Alcohol) is nothing more than a fatty and solid alcohol of vegetable origin that gives more consistency and texture to creams and lotions. It has a very interesting property: it is able to attract moisture getting a much softer skin. It is thus highly moisturizing like vegetable glycerine. As a co-emulsifier we will dose it at 0.5 – 1%, and to give consistency we can add up to 5% alcohol.

To make this cream of relatively light texture (the ointments based on butters usually have a heavier texture and that is why they are used at night or in winter that is less hot) you will need a small container of about 50 ml, rice wax and oat infused oil.

As a cosmetic ingredient, vegetable oat infused oil is recognized for its nutritional, restorative and restructuring properties, thanks to omega-6 essential fatty acids, which favour the natural repair process of the skin. Oats are also rich in ceramides and phospholipids, close to the natural lipids of the skin, which give it excellent skin compatibility. By strengthening the hydrolipidic film of the skin, it protects the skin from dehydration and softens it by also avoiding pruritus. These soothing and regenerating qualities make it perfect for the care of sensitive and reactive skin.

As an asset we have added at the end a few drops of vegetable bisabol. Organic bisabol or vegetable bisabol comes from the distillation of the essential oil of Candeia, a tree native to Brazil. The leaves and flowers of this tree are known for their medicinal properties, as is the essential oil that is obtained from the distillation of its bark.

Unlike synthetic bisabol, vegetable bisabol is most effective even at lower doses. Oily and translucent, bisabol is a colourless to pale yellow liquid with a vegetable and sweet smell. It is neither toxic nor irritating and is a very effective ingredient for soothing irritated skin. Recognized for its anti-inflammatory and healing properties, it is an asset of choice in the care of sensitive and damaged skin. It is also interesting its antifungal and antibacterial action and that is why it is used a lot in the preparation of repairing creams, creams for after the sun, creams for sensitive and damaged skin, and even in deodorants.

 

OATMEAL CERATE WITH RICE WAX

Ingredients for 50 ml:

Rice wax 3’5 grs

Oat oleate 18 grs

Mineral water 26 grams or 26 ml, as you prefer.

Four drops of vitamin E

Optional: 8 drops of vegetable bisabol that will also facilitate the conservation of our cream.

As you can see, in homemade natural cosmetics, and especially to treat sensitive skin, we recommend always using preservatives of totally natural origin or prepare, as in this case, small amounts of product that we are going to consume for sure before they can spoil.

Operative mode:

Prepare the oily phase (rice wax and oat oil in a bowl) and put it in the water bath.

At the same time, we put the watery phase to the water bath in another separate bowl.

When both phases are hot (about 70ºC) and the wax melted, we can gradually add the aqueous phase to the oily phase by removing vigorously with a mini-blender.

Now we can take the bowl out of the water bath without stopping to stir for 5 minutes. It’s time for us to add the drops of vitamin E and, optionally, the droplets of vegetable bisabol.

We can already package in a glass container, if possible, to extend its expiration.

Note: Cerates are very creamy. Its penetration and emollience capacity are very good.

 

HOT MACERATION METHOD TO PREPARE OUR OAT INFUSED OIL

With the cold method it is easier for the properties of the vegetable oil to remain intact and for the oil to absorb more active ingredient of the plant.

However, the hot method is more suitable for the hard parts of the plant such as the roots, or, in this case, to make an oleate from a cereal such as oatmeal. We will try, of course, that it is in flakes as crushed as possible so that the active ingredients of the cereal are better transmitted to our oil.

The easiest way to do this is to the water bath. We put in a bowl of thermo-resistant glass the oats powder and the oil over medium-low heat, let heat for about 45 minutes, approximately, over low heat so that the temperature remains constant and does not exceed 40°C degrees in which our oil could deteriorate. It is important to remove from time to time with a wooden spoon. After this time, we filter well and package as in the previous case.

It is advisable, if you can, to leave the oil and the plant in maceration a day or two at least before filtering and bottling it.

 

OUR SECOND PROPOSAL OF EMULSIFIED CREAM WITH VEGETABLE EMULSIFIER

We have chosen turmeric oleate, which we will prepare by the cold method if we have turmeric powder extract. This cream is very effective because the active substance contained in turmeric (curcumin) has on the skin an action similar to cortisone. Turmeric, which also lacks side effects, treats and softens dermatitis, psoriasis, inflammation, and excessive skin reactivity that some sensitive skin present.

At a cosmetic level, it adds shine to the skin and makes it radiant, treats hyperpigmentation with regular use and even delays the aging process.

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0378874118305221?via%3Dihub

“Anti-aging properties of Curcuma heyneana Valeton & Zipj: A scientific approach to its use in Javanese tradition”

Its antibacterial effects also endow it with capabilities to treat acne, and its anti-inflammatory effects, to soften the affected skins of rosacea.

Emulsified in this way with natural soy lecithin, which we can also prepare in a homemade way, it has a great compatibility and skin absorbency.

It is possible to prepare more amount of soy lecithin than we need because soy lecithin is preserved very well, up to a year, if we preserve it in a glass container and sheltered from light and sudden changes in temperature.

To prepare soy lecithin at home, it will be enough to put in a container in the water bath about 30 grams of soy lecithin for 20 grams of sunflower oil and heat them until a paste has been formed. It is necessary to stir very well so that the lecithin powder is completely melted in the oil and no lumps remain. Then we will take it out of the fire and introduce it in a recent glass to be able to reuse it in our future cosmetic preparations.

 

TURMERIC BUTTER AND LECITHIN

To prepare 100 grams of product, we would put:

50 grams of shea butter or mango (if we prefer a lighter texture)

25 ml turmeric oleate

25 ml of incense hydrolat

1 tablespoon of 10 grams of soy lecithin

15 drops of turmeric EO

15 drops of GSE (grapefruit seed extract)

Notes: GSE or Leucidal are the most natural preservatives that we can use in this recipe, because, as we know, this type of recipes that contain water are at risk of moulding fast without the preservative. If we have benzoin tincture*, it is also possible to use it because it also has a mild depigmenting effect.

*Benzoin resin is anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antifungal and healing. And it is also depigmenting and rejuvenating. Due to its calming effect, it is used above all for skin problems such as eczema, dermatitis and psoriasis.

PROCEDURE:

Put the butter first in the water bath and light heat and when it is melted add turmeric oleate and lecithin and remove until everything is perfectly integrated. At this point, and over minimum heat, we will add the hydrolat while still stirring.

Put out the fire and stir well. Everything must now be a homogeneous mass that we will leave warm to add the preservative Leucidal and the turmeric essential oil.

If you prefer a more fluid cream, you can increase the amounts of turmeric oleate or incense hydrolat.

When the mixture has thickened, remove it from the heat and let it stand at room temperature. We will bottle it in a container if possible of glass so that it is better preserved. If we have not added any preservatives, we will need to keep it in the refrigerator.

As you will see, the oleate, and our cream, therefore, have a light-yellow colour. Turmeric’s properties have passed to oil, but the pigments that stain the skin and hair have disappeared. However, it is still necessary to take precautions with light clothing in contact with our skin.

For the rest, it is an emulsified butter with a very pleasant texture and a great penetration capacity.