At a certain age, using a day cream with sunscreen becomes a major decision if we want to avoid hyperpigmentation and spots caused by sunlight on the face.

This is especially advisable if we already have spots and, at night, we use a depigmenting serum with glycolic, lactic or salicylic acid, vitamin B3, etc … There are many possible versions depending on our skin type. In these cases, our skin thins due to the use of depigmenting acids and the use of a photoprotective day cream to prevent new spots becomes a matter of survival.

 

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For some people who have skin affected by dermatitis, using a daily foundation is something that is not considered. That is why we have set ourselves this challenge of preparing a colored cream with totally natural sun protection that we can use daily without damaging our skin.

Because if our cream color, in addition to protecting us from solar radiation, also offers the possibility of covering the imperfections of the skin (what is known as a BB cream), better than better, right?

 

THE DANGERS OF CONVENTIONAL FOUNDATIONS

I don’t know if you’ll know, but using a conventional foundation or day color cream has many dangers that especially affect the most delicate skin.

There are many websites that provide us with detailed information about the content of cosmetic and makeup products available in stores. To do this, it is necessary to read the labels or inci of a product, which is what it is called in the contents of the label.

Healthy Living:  https://www.ewg.org/apps/

Beauty:  https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=fr.officinea.cleanbeauty

Skin Deep: https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/

 

Throughout this post you will appreciate that there is a list of toxic ingredients in our makeup and cosmetic products that should be avoided:

MINERAL OILS: Paraffins and Vaseline are not toxic per se, but there are studies that claim that they can cause allergies. They help keep the skin hydrated, since, like all oils, they generate an occlusive barrier that prevents water loss, but they do not provide additional nutrients of any kind, as vegetable oils do. It is recommended to avoid products that contain these mineral oils derived from petroleum.

Synonyms of these ingredients that you can find on the labels: LIQUID PARAFFIN; LIQUID VASELINE; PARAFFIN OIL; PARAFFIN OILS; PARAFINUM LIQUIDUM; WHITE OIL MINERAL OIL; PROLATUM OIL; WHITE MINERAL OIL, PETROLEUM

SILICONES: They are inorganic polymers based on silicon that achieve a false appearance of perfection. Some, those that are not soluble in water, are considered more dangerous. For example, D4 and D5 are endocrine disruptors, cyclomethycone is a mixture of D4, D5 and D6. Cycloheptasiloxane is potentially bioaccumulative.

PEGs are softer silicones, but they are made through a process called ethoxylation. This process itself is very dangerous for the workers who perform it (due to exposure to ethylene oxide), for the environment and, of course, for people.

Different silicones that you can find on the labels: PEG, Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Vinyl Dimeticone Crosspolymer, Cyclotetra, penta or hexa-xyloxane, cetyl dimeticone colpolyol and in general everything that ends in –ethicone and –oxane.

PARABENS: They are preservatives derived from oil. They have suffered great media harassment, and many people are afraid of them. The reality is that there are many types of parabens, some of which are totally harmless and others very dangerous. Below is a list of the most dangerous:

ISOBUTYLPARABEN, ISOPROPYLPARABEN, PROPYLPARABEN, BUTYLPARABEN, BENZYLPARABEN, ETHYLPARABEN, MEHYLPARABEN, PHENYLPARABEN

SYNTHETIC PRESERVATIVES: Methylisothianolinone,for example, is a preservative used in highly allergenic and possibly toxic cosmetics and makeup. Other names you will find this ingredient with: 2-METHYL-3 (2H) – ISOTHIAZOLONE; 2-METHYL-2H-ISOTHIAZOLE-3-ONE; 2-METHYL-3(2H)-ISOTHIAZOLONE; 2-METHYL-4-ISOTHIAZOLIN-3-ONE; 3 (2H) -ISOTHIAZOLONE, 2-METHYL-; 3 (2H) ISOTHIAZOLONE, 2METHYL; METHYLCHLOROISOTHIAZOLINONE SOLUTION225METHYLESOTHIAZOLINONE; 2-METHYL-3(2H)-ISOTHIAZOLONE; 2-METHYL-4-ISOTHIAZOLIN-3-ONE.

Diethanolamine (DEA), monoethanolamine (MEA), and triethanolamine (ASD) are additives and preservatives that can cause hormonal dysfunction. They can react with cosmetic nitrites and give rise to nitrosamines, possible carcinogens.

BORIC ACID: Inorganic acid used as a preservative. It is a very irritating endocrine disruptor. Other names you’ll find on labels: BORACIC ACID; BORIC ACID (HBO2) ; BOR TRIHYDROXIDE; ORTHOPHORIC ACID; TRIHYDRO-XIBORANE; BASILIT B; BORIC ACID; BOROFAX; BOR TRIHYDROXIDE; BORSAURE (GERMAN) ; DR. S 1 FLEA TERMINATOR DF

ALUMINUM CHLORIDE: It comes from aluminum and its derivatives; they are bases and active ingredients of deodorants and antiperspirants that are also endocrine disruptors. Synthetic aluminum salts (unlike natural ones) have more capacity to cover the sweat glands, causing their inflammation and accumulation of waste. Its toxicity depends on the ability to penetrate the body and varies depending on the molecule. Other names for this ingredient: ALUMINUM CHLORIDE; ALUMINIUM TRITRICURE; ALUMINIUM CHLORIDE (ALCL3); ALUMINIUM TRITRICURE; TRICHLOROALUMINIUM; ALL· LUCINI (CLORUR DI) (ITALIAN); ALUMINIUM CHLORIDE; ALUMINIUM CHLORINATED (GERMAN) ; ALUMINUM CHLORIDE (1:3) ; ALUMINIUM TRITRICURE; ALUMINIUM CHLORIDE (FRENCH). Sometimes, these molecules can appear even in makeup products.

TOLUENE: It is a substance present in nail polishes and nail polish removers, irritates the eyes, throat, lungs, can cause fatigue, headache, nausea, damage to the fetus, and if contaminated with benzene (something common) it is carcinogenic. Other names of this ingredient: BENZENE, METHYL; BENZENE, METHYL-; METHYL-BENZENE; METHYLBENZENE; TOLUOL; ANTISAL 1A; BENZENE, METHYL-; CP 25; METACIDA; METHANE, PHENYL-; TOLUENE

HYDROQUINONE: It is used as a skin bleach and its cosmetic content is limited due to its toxicity. Hydroquinone reduces melanin in the skin by increasing your exposure to the sun’s rays. It is also used in hair dyes.

Other names of this ingredient: 1,4-BENZENEDIOL; 1,4-DIHYDROXYBENZENE; 1,4BENZENEDIOL; 4-HYDROXYPHENOL; P-DIOXYBENZENE; P-HYDROXYPHENOL; 1,4-BENZENEDIOL; 1,4-DIHYDROXY-BENZEEN (DUTCH) ; 1,4-DIHYDROXY-BENZOL (GERMAN) ; 1,4-DIHYDROXYBENZENE (CZECH) ; 1,4-DIHYDROXYBENZENE

PHTHALATES: Fixatives and solvents of fragrances that give persistence to the smell of cosmetics, help the nail polish pass from liquid to enamel and they also denature the alcohol. They are substances that have hormonal disruptive effects, affect the reproductive system and are related to cancer, as well as respiratory problems and asthma. Many times they are not indicated in the list of ingredients because they are included in the fragrance or perfume, so if you want to avoid them completely you should avoid products that contain synthetic perfume. Names you’ll find on labels: Dietary Phthalat; Dimethyl phthalate; 1,2-BENZENEDICARBOXYLIC ACID, DIETARY ESTER; 1,2 CARBOXYLIC BENZENE ACID, DIETHYL ESTER; DEP; DIETHYL 1,2-BENZENEDICARBOXYL; DIETARY ACID 1,2-BENZENEDICARBOXYLIC ACID; DIETHYLPHTHALATE; 1,2-BENZENEDICARBOXYLIC ACID, DIETARY ESTER; ANONOZOL; DEP; DIETHYL 1,2-BENZENEDICARBOXYL; DIETHYL O-FTALAT

NANOPARTICLES: They are relatively recent, but without consensus of their effect on the organism. Its small size facilitates its penetration even at the cellular level. They don’t have an INCI or a specific name on their labels because it’s a concept that defines the physical structure of an ingredient, and not the ingredient. However, since 2014 it is mandatory to identify them on the labels in some way, so you will simply have to check it. In organic natural cosmetics they are prohibited.

PERFUME: Synthetic fragrances are the most common ingredient in cosmetic products. The generic name “fragrance”, “perfume” or “aroma” can refer to more than 3,000 ingredients. Under the same name we can find from an essential oil (case of natural cosmetics) to ingredients suspected of being carcinogenic such as phthalates or toluene that are used as solvents. Most of the perfumes used are potential allergens. It is difficult to identify on labels what kind of perfume is in the product. In general, if a product carries essential oils instead of synthetic perfumes, they clarify it. Look for products that say, for example, Lavandula Officinalis leaf oil, which is the essential oil of lavender.

COLORANTS: These are pigments that are identified on the label by the acronym C.I. followed by a number. There are many types of colorant compounds and the potential to affect human health from each of them is different. Some can cause allergies and dermatitis. Others may contain heavy metals and be highly toxic.

Beware of azo dyes, manufactured directly in the laboratory from highly toxic substances called amines, as they can dissociate into potentially carcinogenic anilines. Azo pigments end in -aniline or -anilid, or carry the acronym HC or the words Acid, Pigment or Solvent.

All pigments are identified with the same nomenclature, even natural or mineral ones. To differentiate them, natural mineral colorants begin their numbering by 408 or 75, but these, although of natural origin (they come from oxides and minerals) can also contain heavy metals. It is very difficult to differentiate this into a cosmetic or makeup, but it can be controlled if you do the makeup from scratch.

All other numberings correspond to synthetic colorants. Some mineral colorants are also problematic due to their heavy metal content such as chromium. INCI (of the most problematic): CI 10006, CI 10316, CI 11680, CI 11725, CI 11920, CI 12085, CI 12150, CI 12370, CI 12700, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15985, CI 16035, CI 16230, CI 16255, CI 17200, CI 18050, CI 18690, CI 18820, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 20470, CI 26100, CI 27290, CI 40215, CI 45220, CI 50325, IC 60724, IC 60725, CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 61585, CI 74260, CI 77163, CI 77285, CI 77288.

LEAD: Lead is a heavy mineral neurotoxic to humans. The alert arose from news reports claiming that many lipsticks contain a high percentage of lead in their recipes. This ingredient does not appear on the label and even the FDA (the US regulator of drugs and food ingredients) publicly announced that this is a lie, but the reality is that other organizations also did their tests and the results were alarming. At the moment there are no clear certainties on both sides, but we recommend that you always trust NGOs or regulatory bodies that are not more politically related, as they tend to be less corrupt.

 

OUR COLOR CREAM WITH NATURAL MINERAL PHOTOPROTECTION AND WITHOUT PRESERVATIVES

First of all, to turn it into a photoprotector, we have included in our recipe a mineral photoprotector such as zinc oxide attached to a biological photoprotector such as urucum oleomacerate.

In addition, although we have nothing against pigments derived from mineral oxides, since they are not absorbed by our skin; you know how much we like to use natural ingredients that provide properties to our product, whenever possible. That is why we have formulated this color cream without pigments using instead the skin dyeing effect of urucum powder, which, as we said, is also a biological sunscreen.

The cream that looks more yellow in the photo is because it also contains another photoprotective mineral (titanium dioxide) combined with zinc oxide and urucum oleomacerate. However, after spreading the cream, the urucum, which is not a pigment, but a dye, is absorbed and adapts to the color of our skin. So don’t be swayed by the strong orange hue of the cream. That is why we have also added titanium dioxide to this base. Titanium dioxide has a higher covering capacity (opacity) than zinc oxide and the combination of both better hides skin imperfections.

And finally, we have included the diatomaceous earth as a star ingredient. Why do we add diatomaceous earth? On the one hand, because the diatomaceous earth is very absorbent and with this we manage to improve the oily texture of our cream so that it has a less fatty effect when applied since it is a cream without aqueous phase that is what allows us not to use preservatives to make it.

On the other hand, we have included diatomaceous earth because it contains a high percentage of silica which is a very interesting component for skin care and is usually added in most makeup products. However, diatomaceous earth naturally contains silica. It is, therefore, a contribution of organic silica to our skin, which is not the same as mineral silica that is toxic and whose inhalation is dangerous.

*As with so many other things, we want to highlight in our blog the great difference that exists between organic or bioavailable elements and those synthesized in the laboratory. If you remember our entry on natural aluminum stone or toothpastes with bioavailable fluoride of natural origin. However, we also do not want to claim that all elements and products of synthetic origin present the same toxicity problems. It will be necessary to inform at all times of the synthetic elements that are not bioavailable and that cause health problems. And for this reason, there are blogs and posts like this.

Silica is a trace element present in our body, which intervenes in the development and formation of our tissues, such as muscles, joints, skin, hair and nails, since it is a fundamental part in the formation of collagen and elastin fibers.

Applied externally, it has firmness, repair and anti-wrinkle properties (improves the symptoms of sagging), strengthens nails and hair. It helps to improve skin hydration and natural collagen formation and is therefore frequently found in the formulation of firm and anti-wrinkle creams and products for sensitive skin, as it prevents skin irritation. In addition, therefore, it is used in after shaving or after the sun creams…

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THE THREE VERSIONS

Previously, we will have to prepare the oleomacerate of urucum as explained in our entry of “The paradox of the sun”.

This infused urucum oil will be added to our day color cream recipe. And for this we have prepared three versions of the same “color cream” with the intention of adapting it better to the tone of our skin.

 

LIGHT SKIN VERSION with 15 grams of urucum oleomacerated

Ingredients for a container of about 100 grs:

45 g. of shea butter

25 gr. of sesame or almond oil

15 gr. of infused urucum oil

10 gr. of “non-nano” zinc oxide

5 grams of diatomaceous earth

5 drops of vitamin E

 

Remember that it is important to purchase from your cosmetic raw material supplier the mineral photoprotectors of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide without nanoparticles that can then be absorbed by the skin. This ensures the safety of the final product. If you find that they have a thick texture and are therefore more difficult to dissolve and integrate into your preparations, it is normal, because they do not contain nanoparticles. It is what we are looking for, and what you can do to facilitate their integration into your product is to grind them well with a cosmetic grinder like this.

 

 

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This cream for light skin, although it has a very clear visual appearance, looks great when applied because the urucum is absorbed and adapts to the tone of our skin hiding imperfections without it seeming that we wear any type of makeup. As we have explained before, the urucum is not a pigment, but a dye, so the fact that the cream has a clear appearance is not indicative of how it looks later on the skin.

 

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MEDITERRANEAN SKIN CREAM VERSION

Ingredients for a container of about 100 grs:

45 g. of shea butter

10 gr. sesame oil or almond oil

25 gr. of urucum infused oil

10 gr. zinc oxide

5 grams of titanium dioxide

5 grams of diatomaceous earth

5 drops of vitamin E

 

In this version we have added titanium dioxide to give our base greater opacity. However, as we explained before, by not carrying pigments in the form of oxide, the result is also very natural because urucum is absorbed and, finally, only the effect of hiding imperfections and combining the skin tone is appreciated, apart from, without a doubt, the sunscreen effect.

 

 

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PROCEDURE: In both recipes, shea butter is weighed and melted in the bathroom until it melts. We will lower to a minimum heat to maintain the quality of the ingredients. Then add the rest of the oils mixing everything very well with the rod.

We continue adding urucum oleomacerate, zinc oxide, diatomaceous soil and titanium dioxide, if applicable, mixing very well with a mini-blender so that everything integrates well.

It’s time to add vitamin E and bottle.

 

DARK SKIN VERSION CREAM with mineral oxide pigments

For people who want to try a color cream with greater opacity when it comes to hiding the imperfections of the face, you can try this recipe with brown and pink oxide combined in a TAD spoon of 0.2 grs.

Ingredients for a container of approximately 100 grs:

45 g. of shea butter

25 gr. sesame oil or almond oil

10 g. of urucum infused oil

10 g. zinc oxide

Optional, 5 grams of “non-nano” titanium dioxide

5 grams of diatomaceous earth

0.2 grams of pigments (half a teaspoon of coffee)

5 drops of vitamin E

 

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In the previous recipe, if we wanted to give it a greater coverage capacity to match the skin tone, we would add the 5 grams of titanium dioxide.

 

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MODUS OPERANDI:

It would be the same procedure as in the previous two cases. We would start by weighing all the ingredients and melting the shea butter in the bath and over low heat to preserve its integrity and properties.

Then, in this order, we would add the oil, urucum oleomacerate, zinc oxide, and titanium dioxide while stirring.

Finally, we would remove from the heat and add the combination of pigments while stirring so that they integrate well. After the mixture has cooled down a bit, we would add vitamin E, which is heat-sensitive.

 

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The great advantage of these “color creams” is that they are formulated without water so that they remain for months in perfect condition. In addition, formulated with zinc oxide and protective oils are very gentle on the skin and can be used daily without problems.

Even the most sensitive skin. For example, I use color cream daily in the first version for light skin, and not only is it very natural, but it also does not produce any contraindications.

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We hope this article will help you make choices as more conscious consumers.

 

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