We wanted to begin our article on natural sunscreens with this quote from the book “The Coconut Oil Miracle” to illustrate the concept of virgin vegetable oils and their sun protection index.
“The Polynesians, who traditionally wear very little clothing, have for generations been exposed to the hot blistering sun, yet have beautiful healthy skin without blemishes and without cancer. The reason is they eat coconut and use the oil on their bodies as lotion. The oil is absorbed into the skin and into the cell structure of the connective tissues, limiting the damage excessive sun exposure can cause. Their skin remains undamaged even when exposed to long hours in the sun. Whether it’s applied topically or taken internally, coconut oil helps to keep the skin young, healthy, and free of disease.” – Bruce Fife, The Coconut Oil Miracle
Coconut oil seems to work wonders as it not only rejuvenates the body and strengthens the immune system, but is also antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral, and according to some sources, even cancer medicine.
However, those of you who can’t spend the day in Polynesia consuming this coconut oil and its derivatives may need some tips on how to protect yourself naturally from the summer sun.
Always considering that all these types of creams, oils and lotions that we can make naturally, can never be a licence to stay in the sun for hours without getting burnt.
Staying out of the sun between noon and 3 p.m. and seeking shade will be the most important ecological sun protection measure to consider.
WHY COMMERCIAL SUNSCREENS BASED ON CHEMICAL FILTERS SHOULD BE AVOIDED
As you know, the focus of this blog is on healthy natural cosmetics, based on a healthy lifestyle. In this line, our articles try to spread a homemade natural cosmetic specially designed to take care of the most sensitive skins.
In general, sun creams based on chemical filters are less recommended than those based on mineral filters to block harmful solar radiation. And, after reviewing many studies and pages, we can conclude that sunscreens based on benzophenone-derived filters, such as oxybenzone, are the first to be discarded as they not only damage coral reefs and marine life, but also pose a danger to our bodies.
A single application of a commercial sunscreen with chemical filters on the body is enough for them to be absorbed into the skin and reach the systemic circulation in appreciable quantities. And the most serious problem is that they reach not only our blood, but also the blood of pregnant foetuses:
– Benzophenone has been found in 17% of umbilical cord blood.
– Also 30% of meconium in newborns.
– In 75% of breastfeeding mothers’ milk.
– And there are also benzophenones in the urine of adolescents.
The most direct consequences are related to hormonal alterations of the menstrual cycle and increased risk of uterine fibroids and endometriosis. But also, in general, oestrogenic and thyroid alterations and reduced fertility.
THE MAIN DISADVANTAGE OF SUN CREAMS
However, the main disadvantage of using commercial sunscreens based on chemical filters is that they not only block harmful UV rays, but also the skin’s absorption of vitamin D, which is so beneficial and so necessary.
The fact is that the sun in winter is even an antidepressant. And, apart from the tanning effect, exposure to sunlight, as we said, is necessary for the synthesis of vitamin D, which is known to contribute to the execution of multiple physiological functions in the human body.
Just read this report on sunbathing in the UK.
In our current post-industrial societies, where the majority of the population works in offices or in the service sector, vitamin D deficiency has been found to be widespread, even in young children.
According to data from the Spanish Society of Endocrinology and Nutrition (SEEN), 40% of the population under 65 and more than 80% of those over 65 have low vitamin D concentrations.
And this, in a country like Spain, with so many hours of sunshine a year, is alarming to say the least.
According to the SEEN, children and adults need a minimum exposure of bare skin (and without sunscreen) to sunlight, so it is recommended, in winter, to expose face and arms or arms and legs three times a week for twenty to thirty minutes. This is because 80-90% of this vitamin is generated by the body itself through exposure to the sun, and only the remaining 10-20% comes from the food we eat.
Vitamin D helps the body absorb calcium, one of the main components of bone. It also plays an important role in the nervous system, fertility, muscle and immune development. A lack of calcium can lead to loss of bone density, which can lead to osteoporosis. Furthermore, a possible link between a lack of this vitamin and an increased risk of hypertension, diabetes, cancer and autoimmune diseases is being investigated.
SUN PROTECTION FACTORS OF VEGETABLE OILS
Much has been said on various pages about the sun protection factors of vegetable oils. It has long been said that raspberry seed oil works very well as a sunscreen product. And it is said that it is OK to rub on some virgin oils because these products have a natural sun protection factor. However, several studies have been conducted on this subject, and while it is true that some oils do offer a certain sun protection factor, it is, in any case, too low (between 5 and 8) to feel safe on a day of prolonged sun exposure.
It is worth mentioning carrot seed oil, of which there are many articles circulating on the Internet about its supposed natural SPF factor. However, carrot seed oil is an essential oil made from carrot seeds. This carrot seed essential oil can only be used diluted on the skin. Therefore, the SPF of carrot seed oil is probably not as high as claimed (an SPF of up to 40 is often mentioned), but the SPF of carrot seed oil, once diluted, will be between approximately 1 and 3.
And, although unfortunately, first cold pressed virgin oils do not serve as sun protection factors, it is possible to use a combination of mineral filters (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) which, together, offer a fairly high sun protection factor (SPF), between 30-40%.
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0020169306000259
“Mineral compounds such as TiO2 and ZnO are widely used in cosmetics such as foundations, powders, eye shadows and pencils. In fact, as early as 1952, titanium dioxide (TiO2) was mentioned as a sunscreen agent [3]. The required characteristic of inorganic sunscreens is to screen/block UV light over the entire UVA/UVB range (290-400 nm) by absorption, scattering and reflection properties which, in turn, are determined by the intrinsic refractive index, particle size, dispersion in the emulsion base and film thickness. The ability of some minerals to act as so-called physical filters in sunscreen lotions is determined by two main characteristics: the absorption/scattering property of the inorganic filter and its cosmetic acceptability.
However, an inorganic mineral sunscreen that works well by reflecting light tends to be dull and white on the skin and is therefore unacceptable for cosmetic use.
A trend in sun protection is the increasing use of inorganic UV filters, especially in sunscreen products for children and people with sensitive skin. This increased use of inorganic UV sunscreens is partly due to their low potential to produce irritant reactions, and partly due to their cosmetic efficacy. Cosmetic chemists have formulated products with a high SPF using only titanium dioxide“.
Are you familiar with this table of the many that circulate on the internet about the SPF, the sun protection factor of vegetable oils?
Vegetable oils | Natural SPF |
Raspberry seed oil | SPF 28-45 |
Wheat germ oil | SPF 20-22 |
Tamanu oil | SPF 18-22 |
Tomato seed oil | SPF 14-15 |
Avocado Seed Oil | SPF 10-15 |
Coconut oil | SPF 6-8 |
Shea butter | SPF 5 |
Jojoba oil | SPF 4-5 |
Almond oil | SPF 4-5 |
However, we found a study in which several oils were tested, and it was concluded that virgin olive oil had the highest UV factor, with an SPF value of 7.5. Coconut oil, which has an SPF value of 7.1, came second according to the same researchers.
And so we continued our research until we came across this study which clearly shows how inflated the SPFs (sun protection factors) of vegetable oils such as raspberry seed oil or wheat germ oil are, when it has been found that Tamanu oil, which has a higher protection index, still does not reach SPF 12.
“In vitro sun protection factor determination of herbal oils used in cosmetics“: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3140123/
Tamanu oil or calophyllum oil has, according to a separate study, the highest protection factor, namely an SPF of 11.2. Still far from the FPS 18-22 advertised in the first table.
“The real UVB photoprotective efficacy of vegetable oils: in vitro and in vivo studies“: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33721242/
Tamanu oil originates from a nut grown on the Ati tree in the South Pacific called the tamanu nut. Rich in Omega 6 and 9, it reduces dark circles under the eyes with a long massage. This oil is also extraordinary in the healing process as it has the ability to stimulate the generation of new tissue, accelerate wound healing and stimulate the growth of healthy skin cells.
It is therefore used, among other things, to treat acne, stretch marks and scars, rashes and urticaria, rosacea, varicose veins, eczema and psoriasis, due to its anti-inflammatory properties.
In another study, for reference, we found the following SPF values:
Coconut oil: 8.
Olive oil: 8.
Peppermint oil: 7 (refers to an essential oil, not a carrier oil such as coconut or olive oil).
Lavender oil: 6 (essential oil).
Almond oil: 5.
After seeing this table, it is easier to understand the quote at the beginning about the sun protection properties of coconut oil, and also to understand the study that points to coconut and virgin olive oils as the oils with the highest sun protection factor, which are still too low (between 7-8) to be used exclusively as sun protection oils.
INFLUENCERS’ ADVICE
The internet is full of blogs with good intentions, in most cases, but with large doses of misinformation.
Often copywriters, which is what their job is partly about, copying, work by copying information from some blogs and transferring it to others, thus generating and perpetuating the circle of misinformation.
And since in the end many blogs created according to this strategy end up saying the same thing, we, the internet surfers, end up believing that if everyone says it, it must be true.
Do you often read such comments?
“With regard to titanium dioxide, which is a mineral filter widely used in natural and organic cosmetics, there are suspicions about its toxicity. It has been found to be carcinogenic when inhaled and some research has found that it generates free radicals and can cause burns.
This blogger emphasised the fact that she only uses zinc oxide as a mineral filter in her recipes because titanium dioxide can be dangerous when inhaled, yet she ignores or ignores the fact that exactly the same thing can happen when zinc oxide is inhaled.
Nanoparticles are also mentioned as dangerous, which is partly true. This is what the Nivea report says about titanium dioxide:
“Traditionally, UV filters are classified as either chemical or physical. The big difference is assumed to be that chemical agents absorb UV light, while physical agents reflect it like a handful of mini-umbrellas on the skin. While this categorisation is easy and logical, it turns out not to be true. A recent 2016 study shows that inorganic sunscreens work mainly by absorption, as do chemical filters, and only slightly by reflection (they reflect light in the visible spectrum, but absorb mainly in the UV spectrum).
However, no matter whether it reflects or absorbs, titanium dioxide is a rather impressive sunscreen agent for two main reasons: it provides good broad-spectrum coverage and it is very stable. Its protection is very good between 290 and 350 nm (UVB and UVA II range), and less good between 350 and 400 nm (UVA I). Full-size titanium dioxide also has an excellent safety profile, does not irritate and is virtually free of any health problems (such as the oestrogenic effect problems of some chemical filters)”.
Our blogger keeps saying: “The smaller the nanoparticle, the more likely it is to enter the body and reach the bloodstream. She also adds that they cause cell damage, cancer and reproductive disorders. My advice is not to use sunscreens with nanoparticles”.
For our part, we can say that if there is any truth in this whole debate about nanoparticles, in the case of zinc oxide it has been shown that even if it could be absorbed, which, as the Nivea report shows, it seems to be in part, it is not even harmful. Quite the contrary, which is why it is so popular in creams to prevent nappy rash on babies’ bottoms.
And, in the case of titanium dioxide, it is completely safe for dermal application, according to a report by the European Commission.
European Commission requirements:
“The risk of skin or eye irritation (painful reactions such as eczema) from titanium dioxide nanoparticles is very low. And while some scientific evidence suggests that titanium dioxide nanomaterials, if they penetrate the body, may cause damage to the genetic material of cells, such effects are otherwise unlikely to occur with dermal application”.
https://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/docs/citizens_titaniumnano_en.pdf
And, in case there is any doubt, in natural cosmetics we do not have titanium dioxide in the form of nanoparticles, and the proof of this is that it is used to make make make-up due to its covering power and, in sun creams, the white veil effect that its use produces is evident.
Therefore, the titanium dioxide sold to us for foundation and other functions is totally safe, the opacity it provides is proof of this.
A report in the European Journal of Dermatology and Venorology claims that titanium dioxide nanoparticles have almost no dermal penetration.
“The safety assessment is based on the current scientific knowledge, which shows that neither titanium dioxide in nano form nor in non-nano form penetrates through the skin”.
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/jdv.15943
“In 2013-2014, the SCCS analysed in detail more than 20 studies on the dermal penetration of nano-TiO2 into healthy skin, conducted in vitro, ex vivo or in vivo, in both animals and humans. According to most of them, nano-TiO2 tends to remain on the skin after application of a sunscreen formulation; only a small proportion of the nanoparticles are likely to penetrate deeper into the stratum corneum, and do not reach viable cells in the epidermis or dermis. The limited skin penetration of TiO2 nanoparticles into the stratum corneum has been largely confirmed by the updated literature”.
Moreover, titanium dioxide is not only used in sunscreens, but also in a large number of other products, including food (E171), toothpaste (it is a whitener) and medicines, with which we are constantly in contact, without apparently causing any health problems so far.
And in the case of zinc oxide, as previously discussed, the debate is much clearer because, if any level of absorption occurs, it does not even have harmful effects.
https://nanopartikel.info/en/knowledge/materials/zinc-oxide
“To live a healthy life, a human being needs 12-15 mg of zinc per day, which is obtained from the diet. In most cases, zinc is absorbed in the form of zinc oxide from natural food sources, which then dissolves in the body releasing zinc ions. Zinc oxide nanoparticles are also used in cosmetic products as a mineral UV filter. Dermal absorption of dissolved zinc ions can occur, but has no potential harmful effects, as the skin needs a lot of zinc for its own metabolism. Most of the zinc we absorb comes from natural sources in food.
FOLLOWING ON FROM THE FIRST COLD-PRESSED VEGETABLE OILS:
What all these oils and vegetable extracts in general do provide, without a doubt, is greater protection of the skin against the sun when it comes to avoiding the effects of solar radiation such as skin ageing, dryness and lack of elasticity, as most of these quality virgin oils are loaded with antioxidants and emollient factors that nourish our skin, thus avoiding the harmful effects of the summer sun.
Take a look at this article from “sciencedirect” on the use of plant extracts in the composition of sun creams, specifically, in this case, guava extract:
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S1011134419306815
“Phytochemical screening revealed the presence of flavonoids and tannins and the absence of coumarins. Although the Psidium guajava extract showed a low sun protection factor (SPF) value (1.0), it improved the photoprotective performance (8.1) of the 7.5% 2-ethyl-hexyl methoxycinnamate formulation by about 134%. Therefore, the supplementation of guava fruit extract in the formulation shows the potential to reduce the use of synthetic photoprotectors by approximately 78.9% of the total synthetic organic filters used to achieve the SPF value of 18. Thus, the sunscreen supplemented with guava-fruit extract shows the potential to minimise the risk of toxicity of synthetic agents, and a 65.8% reduction in the cost of sunscreen production.”
It is this type of synergy that occurs when we achieve a balanced and ideal composition in the composition of a product that perhaps explains, in part, the success of the coconut oil-based sun care products and the delicious aroma of macerated Tiaré flowers that we spoke about at the beginning of our article.
RESUMING
The best and most environmentally friendly sun protection 😊is😊avoid the central hours of the day and to cover up when we are going to be exposed.
And if we are going to use a sunscreen because, for example, we are going to the beach and cannot avoid exposure to the sun, then the best option is to use a reef-safe sunscreen, i.e. one without chemical filters such as oxybenzone or octinoxate.
Mineral sunscreens using titanium dioxide or zinc oxide may be a good option, but be aware that nothing is totally “reef-safe” as scientists continually expand our knowledge of sunscreen toxicity. Even commercial mineral sunscreens have additives and coatings, and many now use nano-sized mineral particles (nanoparticles) to reduce the white cast left on the skin when applied.
Any of these changes can alter the toxicity of a mineral sunscreen. Of course, the best chance for coral reefs to survive is to slow the advance of climate change, so choosing a local travel destination, rather than a long, kerosene-guzzling international flight, would be the most reef-friendly option.
As we always say, what is good for our skin will also be good for the planet, and vice versa, as we are both composed of the same organic matter.
We are one with the planet as intuited centuries ago by the Native Americans or, today, by quantum physics in its concept of quantum entanglement: “We are a whole and everything is interconnected. In fact, quantum physics has shown that our smallest components communicate with each other and with the rest of the universe at the same time. This is the phenomenon of quantum entanglement.
And from this way of thinking of ours or from this ecological philosophy come all our warnings, in different posts, about the bioavailability of a product or cream in order to be able to evaluate the results of its application in our daily hygiene routine, etc, etc, etc…
So, unlike typical sunscreens, we recommend vegetable oils and especially slightly ozonated (food grade) vegetable oils that help our skin stay hydrated while sunbathing as their natural fatty acids ensure that our skin stays hydrated at all times, even hours after application. They help prevent the skin from drying out and wrinkling and give a brighter tanned appearance because the texture of our skin does not suffer.
A lightly ozonised vegetable oil with 10% zinc oxide (it’s as simple as that) becomes a super emollient and regenerating photoprotective sun milk (thanks to the ozone) as long as we use it properly, i.e. avoiding the central hours of the day.
RECIPES FOR ORGANIC SUNSCREENS WITH MINERAL FILTERS
In this section we have tried to present three simple, but effective, recipes for protective pads.
SUN PROTECTIVE LOTION with SPF 20-30
So simple to make that you won’t believe that it protects you twenty to thirty times more than direct sun exposure.
Ingredients for a container of about 100 ml:
Preferably use a glass container with a pump-type dosing head for lotions.
For a 100 ml bottle we will use about 90 ml of extra virgin olive oil, even better if we have a slightly ozonised version of virgin olive oil. As you know, the sun protection index of ozonated oils is still a little higher than the same oil without ozonation, with the added benefit of evening out skin tone after sun exposure.
In particular, we prepare it with an ozoniser from amazon, which costs less than 50 euros and works perfectly.
*We have decided to use first cold-pressed olive oil because, as you know from the study we were talking about, olive oil alone has an approximate natural chemical sun protection index of 8 and when ozonised it is even somewhat higher.
And we will use 10% of this amount of oil, in zinc oxide. For example, in this case, we will use about 10 grams of zinc oxide.
Optionally, add a few drops of one of the essential oils with a higher sun protection index, which, as we know, are peppermint and lavender.
PROCEDURE:
Beforehand, grind the zinc oxide powder in a ceramic mortar so that the powder is as fine as possible to avoid lumps.
Put the olive oil in a bain-marie, making sure that it does not heat up above 70 degrees, so that it does not lose its properties.
Then add the zinc oxide, stirring continuously until it is completely integrated into the oil.
Optionally, add a few drops of one of the essential oils with the highest sun protection index, either lavender or peppermint, or a combination of both.
We can now pack and start using our lotion on our skin to protect it from the sun.
USAGE: As this photoprotective lotion does not contain water, it is not possible to use an emulsifier to fully integrate the zinc oxide powder into our olive oil.
Therefore, the best solution is to shake our lotion bottle well before each use. It is always a good idea to do this several times during the hours of exposure, especially if you go to the beach or swimming pool, as the water will wash away some of your photoprotective lotion.
With these precautions, we will avoid getting sunburnt, thus obtaining a photoprotection between 20 and 30 times higher than that of natural sun exposure. We can therefore say that the SPF of our sun lotion is between 20 and 30.
On the other hand, by not using water, we avoid having to use preservatives and our lotion will remain in perfect condition despite the intense hours of sunshine on a day at the beach.
SUNSCREEN WITH A SPF 30
Here is a natural homemade recipe that includes zinc oxide and titanium dioxide mineral filters, combined with vegetable oils and beeswax, as it has been found that beeswax, together with oil and oxides, generates a very effective synergy in terms of the stability of our sun cream as a whole.
WHAT ELEMENTS ARE NEEDED IN A HOMEMADE SUNSCREEN?
To make our own sunscreen, we need four basic elements:
1.- A wax (beeswax or vegetable wax) for preservation and waterproofing action.
2.- A butter for a pleasant and emollient consistency.
3.- A virgin vegetable oil for a natural sun protection factor, preferably coconut or olive oil, or even tamanu if we have it, as we have seen they have a higher SPF than other oils.
And the mineral filters of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide for protection against the sun’s rays, in the proportion of 2 parts zinc oxide to 1 part titanium dioxide.
While many people use zinc oxide alone and that is fine, the combination of the two offers a broader spectrum of protection.
Optional extras: essential oils for natural fragrance and protection, and vitamin E for long-lasting protection.
SUNSCREEN WITH A SPF 30
As we said, if you combine the mineral filters of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, you can obtain a cream with a sun protection factor comparable to that of a commercial cream and without the disadvantages for the skin of sun creams based on chemical filters.
This cream can be packaged in a silicone travel tube. This way you can easily take it with you in your toiletry bag when you go on a trip in the summer. If you divide this quantity into two small jars of less than 100 ml, you can take it on holiday with you on the plane.
Ingredients for a container of about 150 ml of product:
50 g of coconut oil, SPF 7, or natural Tahitian Monoï oil.
20 grams of tamanu oil with SPF 11, can be replaced by avocado or walnut oil.
50 grams of shea butter, emollient and dermoprotective.
3.5 grs of beeswax.
2 tablespoons of zinc oxide, (about 15 grams) mineral screen filter.
1 tablespoon of titanium dioxide, (about 8 grams) mineral filter.
One teaspoon of edible grade diatomaceous earth* (about 5 g).
Optionally, a few drops of vitamin E and carrot seed oil or coconut C02 extract for vitamins and a pleasant aroma.
However, if you have used Tahitian Monoï oil, which is completely natural and has an excellent scent because it has been macerated with Tiare flowers, you will not need to add any other flavourings. In addition, the synergy with the Tiaré flower macerate gives it extra protective properties.
EXPLANATION OF THE COMPONENTS
If you want to use natural Tahitian Monoï oil, you can find it in some online shops like these:
https://www.jabonariumshop.com/monoi-de-tahiti-organico-ecocert;
This natural oil based on the maceration of Tahitian Tiare flowers brings a wonderful aroma to our sun preparation without causing the problems and irritations that EOs can sometimes cause.
*Diatomaceous earth (food grade) is generally very good for the skin, but this is not the main reason why we include it in the recipe, but because it loosens and loosens the mixture of mineral filters with the butters and makes it easier to apply the sunscreen afterwards.
PRODUCTION PROCEDURE:
Beforehand, weigh all the ingredients and grind the mineral filters together with the diatomaceous earth in a ceramic grinder to facilitate their absorption into the oils and avoid lumps.
Then put the beeswax, butter and oils in a bain-marie until they are melted.
At this point, add the mineral filters and diatomaceous earth, stirring constantly, so that they are fully integrated into the oils.
Finally, if you have chosen to do so, remove from the heat and add the vitamin E droplets and the coconut C02 extract or carrot seed oil.
Pack and leave to cool at room temperature.
This cream, when applied to the skin, will leave a white veil which is perfectly normal since the mineral filters in its composition are not absorbed, but basically act as a sunscreen, which is why they are much less toxic to our skin than commercial chemical filters.
SUNSCREEN WITH A SPF 30-40
The higher degree of protection of this second cream recipe is due to the higher amount of mineral filters we have used.
Ingredients for a container of about 200 ml:
40 grams of coconut oil
40 grams of shea butter
10 grams of beeswax
45 ml avocado oil or, better still, tamanu oil, also called calophyllum.
20 g zinc oxide
15 g of titanium oxide
5 grams of diatomaceous earth
Optional: a few drops of a photoprotective essential oil such as lavender, peppermint, helichrysum or carrot seed.
You will need a glass jar of about 200 ml capacity if you are going to keep it at home or in the fridge for a while, and if you are going to use it soon you can pack the cream in little silicone travel tubes, like these, which make it very easy to transport and apply.
Method of preparation:
Melt the beeswax and coconut oil in a bain-marie. Then add the shea butter and tamanu oil.
When everything is melted, add the diatomaceous earth mixture together with the mineral oxides, stirring constantly so that all the components are well integrated.
Finally, add the essential oil droplets if you have decided to do so.
Pour the mixture into a glass jar and let it cool. If you are going to take the sunscreen to the beach, it will be more liquid. It is best to pack it in a silicone tube to make it easier to apply.
Just remember that these creams are not a licence to stay in the sun for hours on end. And, as with all sun creams, they should be reapplied after a certain period of time.
MORE LITERATURE ON THE DEBATED TOPIC OF SUN PROTECTION:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3423755