First of all, we want to talk about the plant extracts that we can use to make this solid treatment shampoo.
VEGETABLE EXTRACTS from the Ayurvedic tradition to care for hair:
“Bhringaraj is one of the most specific plants for hair care, especially to prevent hair loss and the appearance of gray hair. It is native to India. Strengthens hair and thickens it. Calms irritation of the scalp. It is more appropriate for dark hair.
Nagarmotha is a plant native to India (there is an essential oil). It is used in a mask to purify and regulate excess sebum and to stimulate hair growth. Prevents the appearance of gray hair.
Amla is another exceptional plant for hair care, also native to India. It is used to strengthen and regenerate hair, as well as to prevent hair loss and the appearance of gray hair. It favors vegetable colors. Amla is more appropriate for dark hair. It is used in masks, you can also make aqueous or oil macerates.
Kachur sugandhi (galangal) root powder is used in Indian tradition in hair treatments. Strengthens the hair. It densifies it and stimulates its growth. It is ideal for fine hair without volume.
There are many other very interesting Ayurvedic plants for hair: brahmi (dandruff), kapoor kachli (alopecia, fine hair), reetha and shikakai (natural shampoos), sidr (color fixative, natural shampoo) ”.
Source: Antonia Jover, scientific and family aromatherapy blog.
As we have always been saying from our blog, it is not always the most “sustainable” idea to try to get a plant or extract that is found on the other side of the globe, simply because we have heard very well about it. If we have it at our disposal it is perfect, if not, it is better that we try to find the herbal extracts that our natural environment provides us, because in many cases it is possible to find similar plants nearby that will perform the same function.
For example, the plant extract of rosemary belongs to our Mediterranean environment and its qualities to strengthen hair, add shine and stimulate its growth have nothing to envy those of Ayurvedic Amla or Bhringaraj.
Studies from various universities such as Osaka in Japan, or Sao Paulo in Brazil highlight their ability to:
-Activate the circulation and irrigation of the hair.
-Strengthen the hair fiber and fragile and fine hair.
-To restore shine, flexibility and vitality to hair, thanks to its antifungal action.
We also know that rosemary, like lavender, act by regulating the hair sebum and, therefore, the fat that accumulates in it. Thus, they prevent the scalp from drying out and becoming irritated, thus preventing the appearance of premature gray hair. The rosemary extract, therefore, has nothing to envy to the famous Ayurvedic Nagarmotha.
In turn, the peppermint extract can be of great help when it comes to strengthening our scalp and preventing hair loss.
A study from “Christian Albrechts University” found that the menthol in peppermint oil increases blood flow and provides a cooling sensation. This can help with dryness, itching, and other scalp problems like dandruff and hair loss.
And if your hair is light and weak, then the combined action of calendula and chamomile can replace the Kachur sugandhi (galangal) root powder of the Ayurvedic tradition.
The most important property of calendula is its ability to hydrate the skin and scalp and therefore add volume. Calendula also promotes hair growth avoiding dandruff and dryness, which are both factors that prevent hair growth.
On the other hand, chamomile is known worldwide for its ability to lighten hair. This is due to the yellow and bluish pigments that chamomile contains. In combination, both pigments achieve a natural lightening effect. However, another of the properties of chamomile is that it removes itchy scalp and dandruff and adds shine. Chamomile thus prevents irritations and contributes to the feeling of serenity and well-being of the user, being the ideal treatment for delicate hair.
The combination of both (calendula and chamomile) thus encourages the growth of a strong, healthy and shiny mane.
If you have difficulties finding powdered extracts, remember that many of the powdered extracts can be obtained yourself with the help of a small mortar or even a coffee grinder.
On the other hand, aloe vera gel is ideal for hydrating all types of hair, nourishing it and adding shine. At the same time, it purifies the scalp and soothes irritations and itching.
Dry and damaged hair can best benefit from the moisturizing properties of honey, as it soothes irritated scalp, purifies and revitalizes it.
Its antibacterial and healing properties make it, together with Neem vegetable oil, the hair treatment of choice in case of psoriasis of the scalp.
After all this introduction, let’s go with the recipe:
Normally, I use SCS as the main surfactant because my scalp problem is usually excess oil and SCS, in my case, works exceptionally well at regulating this problem and keeping my hair clean for longer. However, as we are preparing this formulation for the treatment of rather weak, dry hair, and without volume, it is better that we use a milder surfactant, such as SCI.
LET’S GO WITH THE RECIPE
So, 50 g of SCI surfactant (try not to breathe the vapors)
15 gr (1Tbsp) of argan oil or wheat germ oil (to combat dryness and moisturize)
1 TBSP (15grs) rassoul clay or kaolin
1 tsp (5grs) of dry extract of calendula and chamomile powder
1.5 tablespoons of water (about 25 grams of water as the SCI needs less water than the SCS)
Between 15-20 drops of ylang ylang EO.
We will start by melting the SCI with the two tablespoons of water in a water bath. We will heat gently and crush with the back of a tablespoon until the mixture forms a homogeneous paste.
Then we will add the vegetable oil and continue to mix and crush the pasta. Apart from the heat, we will add the extract of calendula and chamomile together with the clay. We will continue mixing it and squashing it all well so that it integrates.
Finally, we will add our last ingredient, the 20 drops of ylang ylang essential oil that will fulfill the function of strengthening the scalp and regulating its lipid layer, with which, we will obtain our volume and hydration goal.
As these molds of my are a bit small, in the end I have almost two tablets, but the ideal situation is that the dough is well compacted (using a spatula) in a single mold so that there are no air bubbles and it hardens better.
After unmolding it a few hours later (48 hours is ideal because it has to dry well), this will be our final result.
I would like to add the recipe that Maria from https://bcncosmetics.com posted in the previous entry about solid shampoo because I find it very correct to treat fine hair without volume:
The recipe was:
60 gr of SCI surfactant
15 g of avocado oil
15 g of kapoor kachli powder extract
5grs of honey
2 tablespoons of chamomile infusion
Between 15-20 drops of Lemon Grass EO
It is also possible to make a combination of SCS and SCI if we want it to have more foam.
We would put, for example:
35 grs of SCS
25 grams of SCI
15 grams of avocado oil
15 g of Kapoor kachli extract powder
5 grams of honey (if we do not want more volume we can ignore it and put instead of 15 grams of oil twenty grams)
2 tablespoons chamomile infusion
Between 15-20 drops of Lemon Grass EO
I hope you like these recipes 🙂